Whether a person who is a poker player of only limit poker should learn to play pot-limit poker play? Most of the great international poker players would enthusiastically reply with a firm YES. Why does pot-limit poker have a magnet like effect on most good poker players? The would-be caller gets odds of only 2-1 in pot-size bet which is in sharp contrast with limit play poker where odds of 5-1, 10-1, and even 20-1 are common. Due to these favorable odds in limit poker most bets are called and majority of the pots are won by showing the best hand at the end. A pot-limit bet or raise confronts the rival player with a more weighty decision. Let us compare a typical pot, and limit poker with pot-limit. For example if in a hold-em game there is $100 pot after the flop, then you get this pot-size in limit poker after playing $10-$20 limit. Also, due to C-note in the pot there is not much leverage in $10 bet. A poker player can make a moderately satisfactory decision without doing complex calculations. If he feels that there is a chance to win, he plays or else he folds. A probable and common poker mistake is to draw to an inside straight. And drawing to longshots all evening will affect your finances considerably. But in the given scenario it does not affect ones bankroll much. If you contest a $100 pot at pot-limit poker, then most of the bets are in the $50-$100 range after the opponent bet the limit which raises the question of what should we do in such a scenario? A horrible play would be drawing to a low-percentage hand like an inside straight. The decision whether to play or fold takes much more weight. A bad decision can prove costly. When you start figuring out the cost t0 poker hand through to the end, the contrast between both the forms of poker becomes even more stark. At $10-$20 limit poker, a $10 bet after the flop, a $20 bet on the turn, and a $20 bet on the end sums up to $50 to call a betting opponent all the way. At pot-limit poker, your rival player can bet $100 after the flop. With a $100 pot, a $100 bet, and a $100 call, he will be able to bet $300 on the turn. The bet in the end could be $900. Thus, adding up to $1300 to see the hand through to the end. At pot-limit poker, the bluff is a mighty weapon. The amount of bet is not the only area of concern that the target of the bet has to think about. He should also consider the probability of being faced with subsequent bets. The bets at pot-limit poker are far larger in relation to the pot and also the subsequent bet increases at a very fast rate. (A raise increases the pot size even faster.) A medium-size bet is a threat to rival players entire stack of chips. As huge leverage is attached to a raise or bet at pot-limit poker, the skilled player can win huge sums of money by using the skills. Generally, a pot is won at limit poker by the player having the best hand. Patience in waiting for good hands plays a more important role than other online poker skills. We pot-limit poker players feel that patience should not be the main factor in the game of poker. We like when skills like knowing when to bluff, reading our rival player correctly, having the guts to push a stack of chips in the pot when required and knowledge of proper odds play a more dominant role. As good poker players can use their skills to the maximum extent, they love pot-limit poker. Limit poker is a fight between players wearing handcuffs whereas pot-limit poker is a open battle. Why would not a well-built person play tackle football instead of touch? The frustration of unsuccessfully trying to make a good hand stand up at limit-play poker is understood by anyone who has played poker. The high pot odds at limit-play poker results in being chased by players drawing to inside straights, backdoor flushes, an over card, a small pair trying to improve, and various other shaky hands. If you could bet more proportionally to the pot size, you could make these chases let go, or severely punish them for not doing so. The solution to all these problems is pot-limit poker. Now, you have more weapons in your armory to fend off the opposition. A skillful pot-limit poker player has a chance to make lots of money. Once you become a good player, it is quite reasonable that you will give preference to that form of poker which gives the maximum opportunity to use that talent. Pot-limit poker is clearly that form. We need not look at pot-limit poker only for monetary gains. Although, we like to win, we want to have fun while doing so. Strong psychological aspects of pot-limit poker such as clever bluffs, complicated deceptive plays, the importance on reading the other players hand makes it a very enjoyable activity. It is always fun to bet a few grand at somebody, know by their embarrassment that you have caught them with hoped-for hand and watch them fold a winner. A big pot won by a bluff is very enjoyable and gives us the satisfaction that the money has been earned instead of being plain lucky. You can make lots of money and also enjoy playing the game by taking up pot-limit poker. Is there anything else a person can ask for? YEP! "burnanturn" :-)

HERE ARE FIVE HANDS I RECOMMEND YOU NOT TO PLAY: (TEXAS HOLD-EM):

Queen-Jack:

I know that two face cards looks pretty. It looks like a monster hand. After all, when you’re playing blackjack, it’s tough for the dealer to beat you when you’re dealt two face cards. But you’re not playing blackjack. Two face cards is nothing more than…two face cards. You don’t have a made hand. In fact, you can’t even beat Ace-high before the flop. You can’t beat even the smallest of pairs. But what makes a hand like Queen-Jack so costly is when you flop a pair of Queens or Jacks, you’re often up against a Queen or Jack with a bigger kicker (Ace or King). And we all know how difficult it is to get away from top pair with a decent kicker sometimes.

Ace-Queen:

I’m not saying Ace-Queen is a weak hand. In fact, it’s a pretty strong hand. At a short-handed table, Ace-Queen is a monster. At a full table, the strength of Ace-Queen is diminished. The problem with Ace-Queen is it’s very difficult for anyone, let alone a beginner, to fold when an Ace flops if you’re up against Ace-King. And when you hit your Ace, if you raised pre-flop, you probably won’t win a big pot because the weaker Aces usually fold to a pre-flop raise. What if you don’t flop anything? Now you’re stuck with a tough decision to make.

Low Pocket Pairs:

The toughest hands to play are low pocket pairs. The reason for that is there really is no “right” way to play them in early position other than folding. Some players like to limp in early position, but what do you do if a player behind you raises? If you call, you will be stuck out of position on the flop and if you don’t hit a set, you will probably have to surrender the hand. If you raise pre-flop with a low pocket pair in early position, you may weed out some players, but there’s always a chance someone behind you will call. Not only that, beginner poker players also lose a lot of money with low pocket pairs when all low cards hit the flop up against an over pair.

Ace-Rag (2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9):

Everyone knows that the Ace is the best card in the deck. However, an Ace with a low card is actually a very weak hand. First off, the hand is vulnerable against a bigger Ace or a pocket pair. What do you do if an Ace flops and your opponent bets when you’re holding Ace-6? Sure, you have top pair – the biggest possible pair – but your hand will often be crushed here by a bigger Ace. Also, Ace-rag doesn’t have good implied odds. How are you going to win a big pot with this hand unless you hit a flush (low percentage chance)? If an Ace flops, you are either way ahead or way behind so there’s no way of getting paid off.

Suited Connectors:

Suited connectors can make big hands that are sneaky. The key word is “can”, because they usually don’t. Suited connectors should be limited to when you’re on the button or the blinds (assuming no raise). Playing suited connectors such as 8s-9s are tough to play because when you don’t hit a big hand, you have nothing. Or, if you flop top pair, you have a weak kicker to go with it. Beginners should have a very conservative hand selection. Once you improve your game, you can expand your range.

< Without a doubt, your average table features a motley crew of fish waiting to give their money away. With a little help from this article, you'll get your fair share of it. The Game The game is $1/$2 No-Limit Texas Hold-em, the Chevrolet Cavalier of poker. The minimum buy-in is $40 and the max $200. $1/$2 is the smallest No-Limit game run in most casinos and for that reason the games are very, very soft. Your Average Opponent $1/$2 games are inhabited by everyone from 60-year-old nits, to first timers, to gamblers who raise every hand, to young, sunglasses-wearing wannabe pros. Some of these players are actually good, but most are not. They're first-level thinkers, thinking only of their two cards and nothing else. They are going to be clueless to the fact that you've folded the last 30 hands and are now betting hard into them. What they're going to be doing is thinking, "I has a pair of jacks; how much?" and then pushing the required chips into the pot. Donkey hat Target acquired. These players are your targets, and the source of the bulk of your winnings. Loose-passive players have two major weaknesses - they call too often before the flop and they take their hands too far after the flop. You'll often hear new players lament about how it's impossible to beat fish because all they do is call. This sort of thinking is so fundamentally wrong it's laughable. Players who call too much are the ATMs of the poker world, readily dispensing money to whoever has the patience to wait for a good hand. Your Ideal $1/$2 No-Limit Hold-em Strategy You play tight, you make top pair or better and you bet! Not exactly groundbreaking stuff. Play ABC poker, make your good hands and bet them. Loose-passive calling stations will do what they do best: call. So let them call, stop bluffing them, and value bet your good hands relentlessly. When you play tight before the flop, you make your post-flop decisions easier. By playing solid hands before the flop you will make solid hands after the flop. When you eliminate marginal hands from your repertoire you'll find yourself with fewer difficult decisions after the flop. Your goal is to flop top pair with a good kicker or better. You have to avoid getting caught up in the table flow. Just because half the table is limping in up front with K♥ 3♠ doesn't mean you have to. Stick to playing tight and focus on playing hands that can flop big. Playable Hands at $1/$2 Big Pocket Pairs (AA - TT) These hands are already made for you. A single pair is often good enough to win at showdown, so when you start with one, you're ahead of the game. Big pocket pairs are such big favorites that you should always raise them for value when nobody has raised in front of you. With aces, kings, queens and even jacks you should often even re-raise. Pocket kings Stick to playable hands. The profit in these hands comes from when you flop an over pair to the board or a set. When you do, bet. Your loose-passive opponents will be more than happy to call three streets with worse hands. Good Top-Pair Hands (A-K - A-J, K-Q) Top-pair hands are hands that make top pair and when they do so, do it with a good kicker. In a game where most of your opponents are loose-passive, your kicker is going to make you a lot of money. For example, if you have K♣ Q♣ and the board comes king-high, you can bet three streets for value against a loose-passive player. He will be more than happy to call all the way down with K♦ 9♠ only to find his kicker is no good. Good top-pair hands are good enough for a raise when the pot has not been raised before you. Top-pair hands do better against one opponent than many, so keep that in mind when choosing your bet sizes. Speculative Hands These are hands that are rarely going to win at showdown unimproved, but when they hit they make big-pot hands. A big-pot hand is a hand like a set, a full house, a straight or a flush. Holding these hands, no matter what the action, you're ready to put your stack on the line. They are speculative hands because they have to hit before they'll be worth anything. They rely on the implied odds that you win your opponent's stack when you do hit. Ideally you would like to see the flop as cheaply as possible with these hands. Speculative hands do best when played in position, so be wary about playing them from up front. Pocket Pairs (99-22) Pocket pairs make huge hands when they flop sets. Sets are often hidden, and you can easily stack someone who has top pair or an over pair. For that reason it's OK to limp pocket pairs from any position. When facing a raise, you have to think about your opponent. If he is a tight player and is unlikely to pay you off when you do hit, you're best off folding. If, however, he is a loose player (or you're multi-way with more than one loose player), you can call a reasonably sized raise to play for "set value." The main thing about pocket pairs is that when you hit a set you should almost always be looking for the best way to get all your money into the pot. Suited Connectors, Suited One-Gappers (Q-Js - 67s, K-Js - T-8s) Suited connectors are great hands, played within reason. They do make both straights and flushes - both big-pot hands. The problem is they don't do it nearly as often as you might think. When you're in early position, you're best off folding low suited connectors. If your table hasn't been seeing too many raises before the flop, you can limp the best suited connectors like J♥ T♥ or Q♠ J♠. All others should be folded. Suited connectors are hands that play well in position. More often than not you're going to miss the flop or hit a weak one-pair hand. Playing them from out of position, in contrast, is going to put you in too many marginal spots after the flop. Suited connectors should rarely be played versus a raise unless you are on the button and it is a multi-way pot, or the raise is very small. Suited Aces (A-9s - A-2s) Suited aces are decent speculative hands because they can flop the nut-flush draw and they do have some high-card strength with the ace. Tom YoYo can play 6-3o. You can't. Nut-flush draws obviously have value because you can stack smaller flushes. The problem with flushes though is that they are right there in the open. Everyone is always aware when a flush draw comes in, and as such it is sometimes difficult to get paid. Suited aces are good hands, but not good enough to limp in from any position. You should be more willing to limp the closer to the button you get. Against a raise suited aces should seldom be played. You're not going to flop a flush nearly as often as you flop a pair of aces with a weak kicker. A weak pair of aces can be a curse. You feel like you have top pair and should see a showdown, but by the time you get there you find yourself outkicked and half a stack short. Weak Top Pair Hands (K-Jo, Q-To, etc.) These are hands that you want to steer clear of for the most part. They are dominated hands and should be avoided at all costs unless you can get in cheap from late position. From early position and/or against a raise they should not be played at all. They don't make many straights or flushes, and when they hit a pair you're going to find yourself on the losing end of the kicker battle more often than not. Everything Else Everything else is trash and should not be played even if it is suited. Suited trash is still trash. Players get themselves into trouble all the time playing weak suited trash because they think they're going to make a flush. You don't make a flush with weak hands nearly as often as you may expect, and the rest of the time you're bleeding money. Stop playing them. Position, Position and Position The importance of position can't be overstated. Many people think they understand the concept of playing in position, but they routinely call raises with marginal hands, only to play the rest of the hand out of position. This is a leak that costs you money. When you're out of position you're playing a guessing game - you have to anticipate what your opponent may do. They dictate the flow of the hand: if they don't want to put more money in, they don't; if they want to bet three streets, they do. Which is why being in position is so important: it puts you firmly in the driver's seat. You get last say on everything. If you want to see a free showdown you do; if you want to value-town someone, you do. Your opponents will be guessing, just as you are when you're out of position. As the better player, with the advantage of being in position, you'll ensure that they're guessing wrong more often than right. A Whole Lotta Cash First you get the cards. Then you get the money. Sit Back and Wait for the Dollars That's really all there is to it. The most important skill you can have at $1/$2 is patience. Sit back and wait for a good hand. You should be folding 80% of your hands. Do not get involved just because you are bored. Start with solid holdings and make solid hands after the flop. When you're card-dead, that doesn't mean you should be sitting around watching tv. Profile them in your mind; identify who the weak players are and what their tendencies are. If you know who the loose players are and who the tight players are, you'll be able to understand their bets and raises and what they mean. Once you figure out your opponents' tendencies, the rest is just a waiting game. Make your big hand and value bet. Exploit the calling stations and force them to put their money in with worse hands.

$1/$2: it's an easy game.

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